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Sunday, 19 August 2012

Trollstigen and Geiranger

Left Dombas after a hearty traditional breakfast and headed west again . Had our coffee break at the Trolltindene mountain range Interpretative Centre. The height and sheerness of these mountains is breathtaking. Base jumping from them is banned but still happens. The last jumper to be killed was hanging from one of the rock faces so the rescue services had to risk their lives to bring down his body.
Put Grieg's Opus 16 Piano Concerto in A minor on the CD player in the car when we left and it was just reaching a crescendo when we turned a corner and Trollstigen came into view. Eleven hairpin bends and a 9% gradient with a spectacular 320 metre waterfall. It was originally a drovers' path but the road was completed in 1936 after 8 years' construction. The pass itself has an elevation of 850 metres and is only open from May to September (depending on the weather).
Thursday was 'waterfall day'. We lost count - they were everywhere.
After we had gone to the viewing platforms and taken our photos it was on to Geiranger. There was a cruise ship in and the tiny village was crowded on a very hot day so we took the next ferry through the Geiranger Fjord to Hellesylt: our stop for that night.
The Geiranger has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world:- deep glassy water, sheer cliffs, the Seven Sisters' and, opposite, the 'Wooer' waterfalls and abandoned historic farms. We were even joined by a pod of small porpoises called, if I'm spelling this correctly, Nesa.
In Hellesylt we stayed at a Vandrerhjem, a sort of hostel. The accommodation was in pre fabricated units each with a balcony overlooking the Fjord so, for the fourth night in a row, we had a room with a view.
In the Pier Gynt Gallery in the village we had our middag (main meal) of Potetball: dumplings made of grated potatoes and potato flour and simmered in a pot with bacon knuckle and polse (smoked pork sausage). This is all served with turnip, butter, sugar and cinnamon if you want it and boiled potatoes. And very good it was too.
Friday morning we headed back to Bremanger and Kalvaag via the deepest lake in Europe: Horninsdalvatnet, with a depth of 1,686 feet. We were lucky enough to see a pod of 3 Nesa who swam alongside us for a while and also an otter.
On the way we called in with a friend of P's who is a Weaver and lives in the most idyllic cottage at the foot of a snow capped mountain. We had strawberries, cream and very good coffee in her garden.
Then back to Kalvaag x


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