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Sunday, 19 August 2012

The geese are heading south.........

..... so must I.
Kalvaag was just where we left it. Saturday was a dreary, wet day and I heard and saw 3 flocks of geese heading south. Time for me to go home too.
P had a good day in the shop and, in torrential rain, we caught the 21.10 night bus to Oslo. A ten hour journey east and south over the mountain range to Norway's capital city.
We arrived bang on time at 06.50 and were met by a good friend of J's who very kindly took us to his and his wife's beautiful home. We had a sleep for a couple of hours, a lovely home cooked breakfast and then H and V drove us to the Munch Museum and its Summer 2012 Exhibition.
I've always wanted to see one of the four versions of Edvard Munch's 'The Scream' - painted in 1893.
When he died in 1944, at the end of a life filled with dark times, he left his collection of over 1,100 paintings and sketches to the City of Oslo.
Before we were allowed into the galleries we watched a 50 minute film detailing his life and some of his most important pictures. His 'Puberty' painted in 1894 is now on display again after an extensive restoration process and is intensely moving.
We walked through the city on another beautiful late summer's day right up to the Royal Palace and were lucky enough to see (we think) the Crown Princess whose birthday it was today, and also the Changing of the Guard. You can walk straight up to the Palace - it's completely open - such a difference to the security at Buck House.
The other place I really wanted to see was the new Opera House on the waterside. An amazing white and glass angular modern building with an beautiful wood interior. Please check it out on Google.
We took a tram back to H & V's house and had a super meal with them before H drove us out to the Airport. And we saw 2 Moose high stepping it across a field of corn on the way - I was so excited :-) I'm so lucky to have seen so much wildlife.
It's now 11pm and I'm fading fast - in the Scandic Hotel at Gardermoen ready for my flight back to Dublin tomorrow morning. P has already taken the night bus from the Airport back to the west coast.
It's been a great trip. I've enjoyed every day of it - seen so much and met so many interesting and friendly people.
Thanks for keeping me company.
Until the next time xxx

Trollstigen and Geiranger

Left Dombas after a hearty traditional breakfast and headed west again . Had our coffee break at the Trolltindene mountain range Interpretative Centre. The height and sheerness of these mountains is breathtaking. Base jumping from them is banned but still happens. The last jumper to be killed was hanging from one of the rock faces so the rescue services had to risk their lives to bring down his body.
Put Grieg's Opus 16 Piano Concerto in A minor on the CD player in the car when we left and it was just reaching a crescendo when we turned a corner and Trollstigen came into view. Eleven hairpin bends and a 9% gradient with a spectacular 320 metre waterfall. It was originally a drovers' path but the road was completed in 1936 after 8 years' construction. The pass itself has an elevation of 850 metres and is only open from May to September (depending on the weather).
Thursday was 'waterfall day'. We lost count - they were everywhere.
After we had gone to the viewing platforms and taken our photos it was on to Geiranger. There was a cruise ship in and the tiny village was crowded on a very hot day so we took the next ferry through the Geiranger Fjord to Hellesylt: our stop for that night.
The Geiranger has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world:- deep glassy water, sheer cliffs, the Seven Sisters' and, opposite, the 'Wooer' waterfalls and abandoned historic farms. We were even joined by a pod of small porpoises called, if I'm spelling this correctly, Nesa.
In Hellesylt we stayed at a Vandrerhjem, a sort of hostel. The accommodation was in pre fabricated units each with a balcony overlooking the Fjord so, for the fourth night in a row, we had a room with a view.
In the Pier Gynt Gallery in the village we had our middag (main meal) of Potetball: dumplings made of grated potatoes and potato flour and simmered in a pot with bacon knuckle and polse (smoked pork sausage). This is all served with turnip, butter, sugar and cinnamon if you want it and boiled potatoes. And very good it was too.
Friday morning we headed back to Bremanger and Kalvaag via the deepest lake in Europe: Horninsdalvatnet, with a depth of 1,686 feet. We were lucky enough to see a pod of 3 Nesa who swam alongside us for a while and also an otter.
On the way we called in with a friend of P's who is a Weaver and lives in the most idyllic cottage at the foot of a snow capped mountain. We had strawberries, cream and very good coffee in her garden.
Then back to Kalvaag x


Thursday, 16 August 2012

Dovregubbens Hall

When I heard we were travelling north on our trip I thought that, the further north we went, the more rocky and stark the terrain would become. How wrong I was. It has been high mountains with glacial u shaped valleys, fertile fields and beautiful farm buildings. Around Trondheim: lots of cereals - wheat, barley and oats; and, as we travelled down towards Roros: fruit trees, silage being cut and baled in white 'tractor eggs', cows out grazing (in many places they are kept in barns and the grass brought to them), sheepies, horses (again not a common sight) and even some llamas & emus (definitely not a common sight!!!).
After we left Roros we turned south and west towards Dombas - our overnight stop. The railway track was beside us all the way from Trondheim running alongside the road or between us and the beautiful salmon river with many anglers fly fishing in it. What a fabulous train journey that would be - wall to wall stunning scenery.
We called in at the highest point of our journey - Dovregubbens Hall (as in the piece of music by Greig) - 946 metres above sea level. Trolls everywhere - not a pretty sight. They're not the cuddly ones I remember collecting in the swinging sixties.
Our hotel in Dombas - Gjestegaard - is a typical Norwegian guesthouse whose main business would be in the winter. They have a ski lift, ski hire, and would cater for skiers, cross country skiers, skishooters and rock climbers.
It was a lovely atmospheric wooden chalet type building with huts for rent and a caravan site. The caravans could connect themselves to little chalets with verandas by lining up the caravan door to a door at the back of the chalet and then pulling a canvas connector across (if that makes sense). Very clever and extending the caravan usage to all year.
We had a typical Norwegian meal of Reindeer patties, boiled pots, fresh veg, game sauce, wild cranberry sauce and flatbread. For dessert: creme caramel with cream.
Breakfast this morning was the usual:- home baked breads, fish: gravalax, smoked salmon, various pickled herring dishes; meats, cheeses (including the norwegian sweet brown cheese) eggs with prawns, hot boiled eggs etc. They have a Kulturmolk which is a bit like buttermilk but not so tart and thicker - very good.
Oh - and there aren't many places where there is a notice pinned up in the entrance hall telling you what to do if you should meet a Musk Ox whilst out having a stroll!
Luckily we didn't but apparently there are plenty about so, if they become a nuisance in a particular area, they have to despatch them:( I would have loved to have seen one - preferably from a distance. I'm told they look like big shaggy boulders if they are lying down.
We left bright and early this morning for Trollstigen and the Geiranger Fjord - both mind blowingly spectacular and in my next post x

Wednesday, 15 August 2012

Trondheim - Norway's third largest city - & Roros - world heritage site

Arrived at the 'P' Hotel, Brattora in the early afternoon yesterday. The temperature was in the low 20s with not a cloud in the sky.
We'd had quite a nature filled journey from Molde. First spot was a roe deer and her twin fawns by the side of the road. A few miles furterr on I spotted a mummy elk !!!!!!! and her calf at the edge of a field. That was VERY exciting. Saw dozens of herons, loads of pied wagtails (which are migrant visitors here, flocks of geese (maybe grey lag)and the ubiquitous hooded crows.
First stop on our self guided walking tour of Trondheim was Nidaros Cathedral. The city was founded in 997 by Viking King Olaf Tryggvason and, up to 1217, was the capital of Norway. The cathedral, started in 1070, is the most important Gothic building in Norway and, since the middle ages, there has been a Pilgrims' Route, 400 miles long, from Oslo to St Olav's tomb in the Cathedral.
Trondheim, with the buildings historically made of wood, has fallen victim to numerous devastating fires and since the 17th century has been pretty much re-constructed.
I found it a lovely small city: lots of beautiful buildings, wide streets in a grid, a cafe culture, vibrant quay area and plenty of interesting shops :)
There were quite a few old traditional wooden boats moored in front of the hotel. Some sort of Boat (and everything connected with boat) Show on which they were part of.
This morning we left bright and early on our way to Roros: a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the south east nearly on the Swedish border.
We managed to get on the very last Tour of the village in English which was both interesting and entertaining.
In 1644 copper was discovered in the town and a Copper Works established. Because the people couldn't live entirely off their income from the mining company they had small farms at the back of their houses.
There are approximately 100 wooden houses from the 1700 and 1800s, with dark pitch pine facades, still inhabited by the local people. From the 1920s there have been preservation orders on these buildings, which are decorated on the street side and plain on the farm side, right down to the colours they have to be painted.
We had a tour of the beautiful church dating back from 1784 built by the mining company with a capacity of nearly 2,000 people where pews with curtains were auctioned off at the beginning of each year so that the great and the good could be awarded their rank and position.
A beautiful place seen at its very best in beautiful weather.
We are now in Trollton avoiding Musk Ox. More about that later x

Tuesday, 14 August 2012

Molde - famous for roses, jazz & football

Hei again.
We left Kalvaag bright and early yesterday morning and four ferries, a walk around Alesund and a trip to the Aquarium later we arrived in Molde. The cloud had been low for most of our journey but, even so, the scenery was wonderful.
Booked into the Molde Fjordstuer Hotel and, after one false start and a bit of negotiating, got a fabulous room overlooking the Fjord with a balcony facing south west. The sun came out and started to burn off the cloud and all was revealed: a spectacular panoramic view of the Romsdal Alps across the Fjord. 222 peaks so the brochure claimed. Some with snow still on them. It was an amazing sight. So guess where we had our pre dinner drinks :)
The gas fuelled ferries operated by Fjord 1 were passing by my window every 20 minutes but were so quiet that I didn't hear them at all during the night.
Earlier in the day in Alesund we had seen one of the Hurtigrute ships: Hurtigrute's a passenger and freight line which provides a daily service along the west and north coast of Norway (a round trip of 11 days): so imagine our delight when the MS Kong Harald arrived at the quay outside the window. And we were even more surprised when another ship - MS Finnmarken - arrived an hour later! They were both picking up passengers who had left the ships on day tours from another port and then were bussed to Molde to catch the ship again.
My balcony also looked onto the Aker Stadion, an award winning building, home to the local football team.
Tonight we are in Trondheim at the P hotel, Brattora. More about that in my next post x

Sunday, 12 August 2012

Going North tomorrow!

It's been very quiet in the village this week. The tourist season is practically over and the nights are drawing in. From I arrived on 9th July until about the 5th August I didn't once see the moon and it was never completely dark. The moon spectacularly rose last Sunday night and the nights have been getting longer ever since.
It's quite autumn like in a way - not helped by the weather being lousy from Tuesday until yesterday afternoon when the sun came out again. Hooray. We were able to have our tea of crab claws, bread and salad at the table on the decking.
There was also a cruise liner in Floro so we had 40 English speaking tourists decanted from a coach right outside the shop door which made for a successful day sales wise.
P is closing the shop from Monday to Friday this week coming and we are going on a trip :) Maps out again please.
Tomorrow we head north for Alesund and an overnight stay in Molde: both on the west coast.
Tuesday we turn north east to Trondheim. It's the ancient capital of Norway with a Cathedral dating back to 1090 and is still where new Monarchs are blessed. I'm looking forward to taking a tour of the Royal Residences and, of course, seeing the Cathedral.
Wednesday we head south east to Roros, nearly on the Swedish border, and overnight in Dombas, heading south west again.
Thursday we are going due west in the direction of the Geiranger Fjord, which is spectacular I believe, and will stay at Hellesylt.
Back here, via Nordfjord, on Friday.
Looking forward to the changing scenery, to staying in hotels in stunning places and taking loads of photos which I can share with you all x

Wednesday, 8 August 2012

And we went for a swim!

I forgot to tell you that also on Monday we braved the north sea. There's a man made beach called Bontlabo in the village and P and I got the cossies on, up the hill on the bikes and in for a dip - carefully avoiding the very pretty, but I imagine very stingy, orange jellyfish.
It was warmer I guess than we thought it was going to be - I bet you warmer than the east coast at home - and at least the sun was out to dry us when we got out.

Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Liset and the Salmon Farm

Yesterday was another gorgeous day so I decided to take the bike up the mountain road to Liset at the south east of the island. Some serious hills, but good whizzing down the other side. The scenery was fabulous. It's so quiet out there - very few houses although it was where people originally settled on the island of Froya. The only sounds were the oyster catchers and ravens. Temperature reached 22 c in the afternoon.
Today, by total contrast, was horrible, cold and dreich. Haugefisk was taking 12 tonnes of pellets over to a salmon farm off Nodset and I went along for the ride. Should have stayed at home and done the ironing because I was foundered. Spent half the time with my bottom up against the range in the galley and the other half doing aerobics in the wheel house to stave off hypothermia!! x

Sunday, 5 August 2012

Coastal Festival Saturday

We had a brilliant day yesterday. The sun shone, the village was packed and there was a lovely atmosphere.

A food market was set up opposite Haugefisk: Thai street food, Norwegian waffles and pancakes, a bakery stall where I bought 'Lefse' - a tortilla like potato flatbread, very thin, doubled over with a butter and icing sugar cream inside - and 'Natronkaker' - tasted like a cross between soda and potato bread - and a fish stall. The cook from Haugefisk alone sold 20 litres of Fiskesuppe.

Beside Holmen Atelier there was a play area for children where they could make boats out of pieces of wood: a lot of hammering, not all of it by the children! Quite a few Daddies were involved too. The children then got to sail their boats in a pond filled with rocks, seaweed and crabs and things. After that they were taken in ones and twos out into the harbour for a wee trip on a dinky boat.

Another lady and I helped P in the shop during the day as it is historically her busiest day of the year It was, in fact, her best day ever!

In the evening there was a very good Alan Jackson type Country & Western Band playing outside Knutholmen. We were invited onto a friend's cruiser for drinks and wonderful dried sheep, cured pork, confit lamb and home smoked trout and enjoyed the music from there. It was a late night - the first time I've seen the moon since I arrived - so the village is very sleepy this morning. I've just been for a walk to Froya Church and back. Lots of cruisers leaving this morning and one of the traditional wooden boats in the bay with its red sail hoisted.
Sun's out - enjoy your Sundays
x

Friday, 3 August 2012

Kalvaag Kystkulturstemne

Went to an exhibition opening on Wednesday night. Didn't expect that. It's called 'Minne om Maria' and it's an exhibition celebrating the lives of some local women, one of them the artist's grandmother, who eked out a living under extremely trying circumstances in the early 1900s. They had lost children and husbands to sickness or the sea and were left with mouths to feed and no support or income. So they took over their husbands' smallholdings, fished, looked after the animals, tended what little crops they could grow and did whatever was needed to provide for their remaining family.
The artist- Reidun Ovrebotten - has made outfits which symbolise each woman's particular struggle. For instance one has a bodice made of fish shapes and another is embroidered with the names and birth dates of the lady's children.
The local member of parliament opened it and even sang a few verses of an appropriate song. We were served rhubarb cordial and lumpa (like potato bread) with brunost: the sweet brown cheese which is made here.
Last night we had some people for dinner. It was P & J's 9th wedding anniversary so I had decided to make them a special meal. But my trying out of three new Indian recipes for the 3 of us turned into a dinner party for 6! No pressure then. Haugefisk needed to be taken from Bremanger to Kalvaag for this weekend's coastal festival so I went with Skipper Jostein along with Kare and a lady from Flaam - at the very end of the Sognefjord which as you all doubtless know is the longest fjord in the world (I think). So those two came for tea along with her partner.
Jostein had liberated some cod from a fishing trip with Russians so we had cod steaks baked in a spicy tomato sauce, gobi aloo saag, rice & peas and naan as well as boiled cod and boiled potatoes in case the Norwegians couldn't do the indian.
As it turned out there was very little left of the indian and lots left of the other so I was well chuffed:) We had baked nectarines with home made yoghurt for pud. Was clearing up at 2am so the evening was a resounding success. It was great craic even though I only understand about 5% of what was being said!
The Festival started today and the village is full of people. I went down to the Atelier to bring P a sandwich at 1pm and got away at 5.30pm! I'm absolutely wrecked. We're going soon onto Haugefisk for fish soup and then on to a musical evening run by the Kystlag (www.kysten.no) a national organisation which promotes the keeping alive of coastal traditions.
Will let you know how that turns out in my next post.
x

Tuesday, 31 July 2012

Fishing trip yesterday .........

.......which wasn't as successful as it could have been.
J needed bait for his crab pots so I tagged along with him in Vulkanen. Oilskin salopettes, wellies - looked the biz!

Went out into the bay which a couple of days ago was heaving with mackerel. They were in for at least two days right up to the moorings and the quays. The water was boiling with them. The little fish they were hunting were jumping out of the water and the balls of mackerel going round and around them. People were fishing everywhere.

So we put the hand lines out. And in. And out. And in. In the space of 20 minutes J had caught 6 mackerel I think and me three.

Went out further into the fjord - the water depth was over 110 metres at one stage - and tried again. Got a few pollock type fish but nothing really happening. J has a fish finder on the boat and there was very little out there. I have been told that, after so many mackerel have been about, the other fish are scared off; but I'm not sure whether that's true or not.

Anyway - J said we'd go back in to get the nets, forgetting that they were in the sea house behind a heap of stuff and also that, because the barge the men have been painting the back of the sea house off is there, he couldn't get Vulkanen directly below the door to take the nets directly on. So we (or rather he, with me unsnagging them every ten seconds as they caught on floorboards, on the gangway, on everything and anything!!) had to move them four times before we got them onto the back of the boat. We then went back out into the bay and let them out. I'm sure that's not the technical term!

The good news was that we had some of the mackerel, baked with lemon and dill, for dinner.I served them with a cabbage and apple slaw and the cucumber pickle which is de rigeur with mackerel. And a baked potato each - yum.

As J was getting up at 6am this morning to bring the nets in and then to check his crab pots and rebait them I declined his kind offer of another outing.

Maybe next time.....

Sunday, 29 July 2012

Summertime

And the living is easy....
Weather has been beautiful the last couple of days and the scenery stunning.
Took a walk out to Domstein (now owned by Norway Pelagic) which is on a little island in what I guess is one of the oldest parts of Kalvaag. They process fish from the big boats, herring or mackerel I presume, salt it and pack it into barrels, pickle it (like the herring you get in jars in Ikea for example), freeze it whole and pack into boxes, or process it into vacuum packs for the likes of Findus.
There's also Larsen Brothers who take all types of fish from the local boats and process/sell it. I must call into their shop and see what they have to offer.

On Friday I took a bike ride out to Nesje at the northern tip of the island. Must be about 5 or 6 miles away so I had a bit of a sore derriere yesterday. The road becomes a rough track about a mile in so it was a bit bumpy, full of sheep and their big lambs (and resulting poo) but the scenery was magnificent. Absolutely stunning. The photos don't do it justice because they can't show the scale. Mountains on one side of the track and the sea on the other. Saw geese, shags, herons, the ever present gulls and - even a snake of the poisonous variety which must have been touched by a car which had just passed me - one of only two that I saw the whole time I was out. It wasn't very happy and I wanted to get a stick (long!!) to flick it into the grass but, because trees don't naturally grow up here much, by the time I had cycled on and found one and returned, it had expired :(

Yesterday a pallet of ceramics arrived at the shop so I unpacked that for P, priced it and broke down the packaging. Then I spent time in the garden in the wonderful sunshine making felt beads and being very lazy. We had belly pork and salad for tea with a few glasses of vino and watched a recording of NRK's coverage of the Opening Ceremony of the Olympics. After 3hrs and 6 mins it stopped!!!!! So we didn't get to see the end. Couldn't believe it! It finished just as the Arctic Monkeys were starting their second song! So we'll have to see if we can get it from somewhere else. Don't think the BBC iPlayer works abroad but I'll give it a try.

Today's Sunday and the weather's lovely. 18 degs and sunny with a little wind from the south west. J is back tonight from his trip on Haugefisk to a music festival somewhere so I'll be able to tell all you about that in my next post.
x

Wednesday, 25 July 2012

First sea eagle sighting :)

Yesterday was the calm after the storm - well, relatively speaking anyway.
After 3 days of unrelenting wind and rain we woke up to blue, blue skies and not a cloud in sight. Still a fresh wind coming from the south west but the sun's really hot when it's out.

I went for a long walk, first to Steinset and then, through the forest, to Froya church. The sound of water was amazing! Everywhere waterfalls, streams and water glistening on the volcanic rocks in the sun.

The forest was the reason P came to Kalvag in 2001 for the first time on a felting project. There had been a hurricane in the 1990s which had felled a lot of trees and then the machinery which was brought in to remove them caused even more damage. So the felters symbolically mended the forest by making roots, tree limbs, fungi, vines, flowers, even fish in nets, from felted wool. (I can just imagine your expression Rocky!!)
Anyway - after that P got work for a couple of months chef ing in Knutholmen: the local bar/restaurant/hotel: and she met J. And that was that. She came home for a little while to sort things out and then moved over here. She worked in Domstein, the local fish processing factory, until they renovated the seahouse, which was J's grandparents', and she opened the shop at Easter 2003.

So - back to the sea eagle sighting. They are rearing their young at present on the little skerries in the fjords so I was really pleased to see the one yesterday coming over the top of the hill behind the forest. It didn't have a white tail so I am reliably informed that it would have been a juvenile.

I spent the afternoon sitting in the garden reading - just like being on my hols! Had trout burgers and home grown pak choi stirfry for tea. Washed down with lovely chilled white wine (and it was only Tuesday!).

x

Sunday, 22 July 2012

22nd JULY

Today is the first anniversary of the 2011 Norway attacks.

The first was the car bomb outside the Prime Minister's office and other government buildings which killed 8 people and injured at least 209.
The second was on the island of Utoya at a AUF summer camp. 69 people were killed and 110 injured.
Anders Behring Breivik was arrested on Utoya.

Wikipedia describes his subsequent trial as follows:
'The trial began on 16 April 2012 and lasted until 19 June 2012. 170 media organisations were accredited to cover the proceedings. Anders Behring Breivik acknowledged that he had committed the offences but pleaded not guilty as he believed the killing was needed. The main issue for Breivik was that he was not to be deemed "insane" or "psychotic", because that would lose the meaning of his message. The sentencing is set to take place on 24 August 2012.'

All of the Norwegian main TV channels are covering the memorial events throughout all of today.

So I have spent the afternoon crocheting and listening to Radio 2 on my notebook. The rain is coming horizontal and the wind is getting stronger and stronger. Could be at home, eh?!!
Just about to cook smoked cod and cauliflower cheese for tea and am going to make a plum crumble (lots of fruits in the deep freeze) for afters.
Early night tucked up with my Kindle I think :-O
Hope the weather is better where you are. x

Saturday, 21 July 2012

A wet Saturday - just like home

Hard to believe that, after we were able to eat our dinner on the patio last evening in bright sunshine, today is like winter. 12 c outside at the minute with horizontal rain. It was 9 c at 9 a.m. I've made a pot of lentil soup and lit the new wood burning stove so the cats and I are alright.

Poor J is on Haugefisk with a group of Russians on a fishing trip. Or perhaps the fishing will be better because it's raining?
Talking about Haugefisk: a while ago a dead whale was washed by the tide right up the fjord and was starting to go off. Haugefisk towed it, under the bridges and past Kalvaag, out into the sea. They had a modicum of difficulty in sinking it but, once that was achieved, they went on down the coast to pick up a house on a pontoon and towed that back to Bremanger. P said it was really funny seeing the ship come back towing a building!! I'll try and get some photos of both the whale and the house uploaded.

Some friends are coming over for tea tonight.
This day last week we ate outside: crab claws, fresh mackerel poached in sea water with peppercorns, cucumber pickle (I'll make that for you all when I come home), melon and Westfaler skinke (like parma ham), salady things, cheese and biscuits, plenty of wine and some lovely norwegian chocolates Jon and Alvhild brought. We'll do much the same tonight.

P had a lot of orders for crab for early this morning so J and Michael went out yesterday in Vulkanen and kept the crabs alive in barrels under the sea house. The claws were cooked this morning very early and the man who wanted 80 live crabs for a party was able to go and help himself.

Oh my goodness - it's getting brighter outside. I think I'll go out for a walk while the rain's off.
Enjoy your weekends.
xx




Horray!!

Success! Only took a week :)but I did do it all by myself.
Link to the Picasa Web Album above this post to the left.
Just click on it.

Wednesday, 18 July 2012

Magical Mystery Tour

I'm way behind with updating you all 'cos we have been socialising so much the past few days so I'm starting with Monday.

J took a couple from Shetland and I out for a drive. Began with taking the ferry from Oldeide to Maloy (hope you're all keeping a detailed map beside you at all times!!) and then travelling all the way up the Selje peninsula to Stad mountain from the top of which we might see all the way to Alesund in the north. Well: we could have done if the summit hadn't been in the clouds! We drove back down and went to a surfing beach (could have been in Strandhill) and noticed that Stad was clear of cloud so J insisted in driving us up again and - guess what? - when we got to the top: cloud. He was so disappointed 'cos he really wanted to share the views with us :( Never mind. We got to meet some very friendly horses which appeared out of the mist and seemed intent on getting into the car with us. They probably had had enough of the cloud as well.
It was a long but lovely day: came back in the ferry from Starheim to Isane. The distances are so huge here. Just like the scenery.

Tuesday we went to Bremanger, about 20 minutes away, to see Haugefisk: a vintage long liner which is now a Museum piece of sorts (www.haugesfisk.no). J is the Captain.
Had coffee with some of the gentlemen working on it and then went to Anne-Karin's house for svele (big scotch pancakes) served with sour cream and homemade jams - blueberry, raspberry and strawberry. There were also rhubarb cake and apple cake, brunost (brown cheese made of caramelised goat's milk) and pots, and pots of black coffee.

We were back just in time to go for coffee and waffles with a lovely couple from Nordfjordeid who have a loft apartment above the Spar shop in the village.
(They were here for dinner last Saturday night when we had crab, mackerel and other yummy things)

And: guess what we did today: Wednesday.
Took the ferry from Kjelkenes to Myklebust so that J could get a trailerload of birch wood for the winter. Whilst that was being loaded we went to a friend called Kare's house for - tra da - coffee and waffles!!!!!!
They were absolutely gorgeous - he also hot smokes the most fabulous trout so we had some of that on flatbread with sour cream - but, if I don't have another cup of coffee or waffle for the next two weeks, I'll not be too sad.
His house is in the most amazing position overlooking the fjord. Wonderful views and his cruiser moored nearby.

OK - that's us up to date so bye for now.

Monday, 16 July 2012

Holmen Atelier

Helped P in the shop yesterday afternoon. She has it looking fabulous.
She got the panelling re-stained over the winter and has lots of new display aids and new lines.
Lovely jewellery: from Ronan in Wales, pewter from Reaction in Lisburn, Pam Wilson's latest from Comber (the Dog House Gallery) and - my favourite range - pairs of earrings: one dangly and one stud in each pair - really quirky designs like an elk on the dangly one and an elk triangular warning road sign on the stud: by a lady called Emily from Norway.
Check out P's Facebook page for more details: Pamela Dunbar Atelier.
I've uploaded photos to the Picasa Web Album - link was in email yesterday.

This is her peak season at the minute - that's why I'm here - and she has been really busy.
Lots of cruisers and boats in and out of the moorings at Knutholmen (the bar and restaurant beside the seahouse/shop) - some serious money spent on boats over here. Will post photos in due course.
Then there are tourists coming in and out every day on the routine ferries which are met at Smorhamn by a bus which continues on into Kalvag.
And, of course, people in cars, campers etc. There's a camp site nearby.

There are a few other shops in the village but Holmen Atelier is by far the most attractive with the best selection of really top quality crafts and giftware. And I'm not just saying that because she's my sister! The other gallery in the village has still pieces which were there the last time I was here - three years ago!!

J took a couple of friends of his from Shetland and I on a magical mystery sight seeing tour today. More about that tomorrow........

Sunday, 15 July 2012

Kalvag - Sunday 15th

Hi. I have been here for nearly a week and am only now getting around to organising this blog - sorry. I wasn't sure whether I would do one this year but: here goes.....
I have also started an album on Picasa Web Albums but haven't worked out how to link it yet.

Left Sprucefield at 8.15am last Monday to fly to Oslo from Dublin. Re-checked my baggage at Gardermoen airport - you have to claim your case at point of entry in Norway (as in the USA) and take it thru customs - so I knew it had got that far. You've no doubt guessed what's coming next! I had a pretty tight connection to Floro, on the west coast about a fifth of the way up - but the 'plane was delayed over an hour. A tiny wee plane holding maybe 20 people each side. Because of the delay we were in danger of missing the last fast ferry from Bergen (via Floro) to Maloy (I was getting off at Smorhamn) so the Pilot 'phoned ahead to let the boat know and to organise taxis.
I was being picked up by a friend of P's and her daughter: 'cos Kjellaug's English is as good as my Norwegian! We landed with under ten minutes to spare and, whilst there were plenty of cases coming off the 'plane, very few of them seemed to belong to the passengers waiting :( The ground staff nonchalantly told us they would send them on which caused me more than a little concern because they wouldn't know where I was staying. Anyway - Kjellaug bundled me into a taxi and said she would sort it out. Five minutes later, after a great impression of wacky races by our (female) taxi driver, we were on the ferry with seconds to spare.
Jostein and P were there to meet me on the quay 20 minutes later and J was able to tell me that my case would arrive on the 11.30 ferry on Tuesday. It didn't and then I really started to be concerned! Another 'phone call and we were informed it would be arriving by delivery truck at the Spar shop in Kalvag at 2.30 that afternoon and, thank goodness, it did. Phew!
And: as I'm here in the official capacity of Housekeeper, Cook and bottle washer for the next 6 weeks I've spent the last days doing just that. With time of course for lovely walks and cycle rides and lazy evenings.
So: watch this space - more later.