..... so must I.
Kalvaag was just where we left it. Saturday was a dreary, wet day and I heard and saw 3 flocks of geese heading south. Time for me to go home too.
P had a good day in the shop and, in torrential rain, we caught the 21.10 night bus to Oslo. A ten hour journey east and south over the mountain range to Norway's capital city.
We arrived bang on time at 06.50 and were met by a good friend of J's who very kindly took us to his and his wife's beautiful home. We had a sleep for a couple of hours, a lovely home cooked breakfast and then H and V drove us to the Munch Museum and its Summer 2012 Exhibition.
I've always wanted to see one of the four versions of Edvard Munch's 'The Scream' - painted in 1893.
When he died in 1944, at the end of a life filled with dark times, he left his collection of over 1,100 paintings and sketches to the City of Oslo.
Before we were allowed into the galleries we watched a 50 minute film detailing his life and some of his most important pictures. His 'Puberty' painted in 1894 is now on display again after an extensive restoration process and is intensely moving.
We walked through the city on another beautiful late summer's day right up to the Royal Palace and were lucky enough to see (we think) the Crown Princess whose birthday it was today, and also the Changing of the Guard. You can walk straight up to the Palace - it's completely open - such a difference to the security at Buck House.
The other place I really wanted to see was the new Opera House on the waterside. An amazing white and glass angular modern building with an beautiful wood interior. Please check it out on Google.
We took a tram back to H & V's house and had a super meal with them before H drove us out to the Airport. And we saw 2 Moose high stepping it across a field of corn on the way - I was so excited :-) I'm so lucky to have seen so much wildlife.
It's now 11pm and I'm fading fast - in the Scandic Hotel at Gardermoen ready for my flight back to Dublin tomorrow morning. P has already taken the night bus from the Airport back to the west coast.
It's been a great trip. I've enjoyed every day of it - seen so much and met so many interesting and friendly people.
Thanks for keeping me company.
Until the next time xxx
Sunday, 19 August 2012
Trollstigen and Geiranger
Left Dombas after a hearty traditional breakfast and headed west again . Had our coffee break at the Trolltindene mountain range Interpretative Centre. The height and sheerness of these mountains is breathtaking. Base jumping from them is banned but still happens. The last jumper to be killed was hanging from one of the rock faces so the rescue services had to risk their lives to bring down his body.
Put Grieg's Opus 16 Piano Concerto in A minor on the CD player in the car when we left and it was just reaching a crescendo when we turned a corner and Trollstigen came into view. Eleven hairpin bends and a 9% gradient with a spectacular 320 metre waterfall. It was originally a drovers' path but the road was completed in 1936 after 8 years' construction. The pass itself has an elevation of 850 metres and is only open from May to September (depending on the weather).
Thursday was 'waterfall day'. We lost count - they were everywhere.
After we had gone to the viewing platforms and taken our photos it was on to Geiranger. There was a cruise ship in and the tiny village was crowded on a very hot day so we took the next ferry through the Geiranger Fjord to Hellesylt: our stop for that night.
The Geiranger has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world:- deep glassy water, sheer cliffs, the Seven Sisters' and, opposite, the 'Wooer' waterfalls and abandoned historic farms. We were even joined by a pod of small porpoises called, if I'm spelling this correctly, Nesa.
In Hellesylt we stayed at a Vandrerhjem, a sort of hostel. The accommodation was in pre fabricated units each with a balcony overlooking the Fjord so, for the fourth night in a row, we had a room with a view.
In the Pier Gynt Gallery in the village we had our middag (main meal) of Potetball: dumplings made of grated potatoes and potato flour and simmered in a pot with bacon knuckle and polse (smoked pork sausage). This is all served with turnip, butter, sugar and cinnamon if you want it and boiled potatoes. And very good it was too.
Friday morning we headed back to Bremanger and Kalvaag via the deepest lake in Europe: Horninsdalvatnet, with a depth of 1,686 feet. We were lucky enough to see a pod of 3 Nesa who swam alongside us for a while and also an otter.
On the way we called in with a friend of P's who is a Weaver and lives in the most idyllic cottage at the foot of a snow capped mountain. We had strawberries, cream and very good coffee in her garden.
Then back to Kalvaag x
Put Grieg's Opus 16 Piano Concerto in A minor on the CD player in the car when we left and it was just reaching a crescendo when we turned a corner and Trollstigen came into view. Eleven hairpin bends and a 9% gradient with a spectacular 320 metre waterfall. It was originally a drovers' path but the road was completed in 1936 after 8 years' construction. The pass itself has an elevation of 850 metres and is only open from May to September (depending on the weather).
Thursday was 'waterfall day'. We lost count - they were everywhere.
After we had gone to the viewing platforms and taken our photos it was on to Geiranger. There was a cruise ship in and the tiny village was crowded on a very hot day so we took the next ferry through the Geiranger Fjord to Hellesylt: our stop for that night.
The Geiranger has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world:- deep glassy water, sheer cliffs, the Seven Sisters' and, opposite, the 'Wooer' waterfalls and abandoned historic farms. We were even joined by a pod of small porpoises called, if I'm spelling this correctly, Nesa.
In Hellesylt we stayed at a Vandrerhjem, a sort of hostel. The accommodation was in pre fabricated units each with a balcony overlooking the Fjord so, for the fourth night in a row, we had a room with a view.
In the Pier Gynt Gallery in the village we had our middag (main meal) of Potetball: dumplings made of grated potatoes and potato flour and simmered in a pot with bacon knuckle and polse (smoked pork sausage). This is all served with turnip, butter, sugar and cinnamon if you want it and boiled potatoes. And very good it was too.
Friday morning we headed back to Bremanger and Kalvaag via the deepest lake in Europe: Horninsdalvatnet, with a depth of 1,686 feet. We were lucky enough to see a pod of 3 Nesa who swam alongside us for a while and also an otter.
On the way we called in with a friend of P's who is a Weaver and lives in the most idyllic cottage at the foot of a snow capped mountain. We had strawberries, cream and very good coffee in her garden.
Then back to Kalvaag x
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Dovregubbens Hall
When I heard we were travelling north on our trip I thought that, the further north we went, the more rocky and stark the terrain would become. How wrong I was. It has been high mountains with glacial u shaped valleys, fertile fields and beautiful farm buildings. Around Trondheim: lots of cereals - wheat, barley and oats; and, as we travelled down towards Roros: fruit trees, silage being cut and baled in white 'tractor eggs', cows out grazing (in many places they are kept in barns and the grass brought to them), sheepies, horses (again not a common sight) and even some llamas & emus (definitely not a common sight!!!).
After we left Roros we turned south and west towards Dombas - our overnight stop. The railway track was beside us all the way from Trondheim running alongside the road or between us and the beautiful salmon river with many anglers fly fishing in it. What a fabulous train journey that would be - wall to wall stunning scenery.
We called in at the highest point of our journey - Dovregubbens Hall (as in the piece of music by Greig) - 946 metres above sea level. Trolls everywhere - not a pretty sight. They're not the cuddly ones I remember collecting in the swinging sixties.
Our hotel in Dombas - Gjestegaard - is a typical Norwegian guesthouse whose main business would be in the winter. They have a ski lift, ski hire, and would cater for skiers, cross country skiers, skishooters and rock climbers.
It was a lovely atmospheric wooden chalet type building with huts for rent and a caravan site. The caravans could connect themselves to little chalets with verandas by lining up the caravan door to a door at the back of the chalet and then pulling a canvas connector across (if that makes sense). Very clever and extending the caravan usage to all year.
We had a typical Norwegian meal of Reindeer patties, boiled pots, fresh veg, game sauce, wild cranberry sauce and flatbread. For dessert: creme caramel with cream.
Breakfast this morning was the usual:- home baked breads, fish: gravalax, smoked salmon, various pickled herring dishes; meats, cheeses (including the norwegian sweet brown cheese) eggs with prawns, hot boiled eggs etc. They have a Kulturmolk which is a bit like buttermilk but not so tart and thicker - very good.
Oh - and there aren't many places where there is a notice pinned up in the entrance hall telling you what to do if you should meet a Musk Ox whilst out having a stroll!
Luckily we didn't but apparently there are plenty about so, if they become a nuisance in a particular area, they have to despatch them:( I would have loved to have seen one - preferably from a distance. I'm told they look like big shaggy boulders if they are lying down.
We left bright and early this morning for Trollstigen and the Geiranger Fjord - both mind blowingly spectacular and in my next post x
After we left Roros we turned south and west towards Dombas - our overnight stop. The railway track was beside us all the way from Trondheim running alongside the road or between us and the beautiful salmon river with many anglers fly fishing in it. What a fabulous train journey that would be - wall to wall stunning scenery.
We called in at the highest point of our journey - Dovregubbens Hall (as in the piece of music by Greig) - 946 metres above sea level. Trolls everywhere - not a pretty sight. They're not the cuddly ones I remember collecting in the swinging sixties.
Our hotel in Dombas - Gjestegaard - is a typical Norwegian guesthouse whose main business would be in the winter. They have a ski lift, ski hire, and would cater for skiers, cross country skiers, skishooters and rock climbers.
It was a lovely atmospheric wooden chalet type building with huts for rent and a caravan site. The caravans could connect themselves to little chalets with verandas by lining up the caravan door to a door at the back of the chalet and then pulling a canvas connector across (if that makes sense). Very clever and extending the caravan usage to all year.
We had a typical Norwegian meal of Reindeer patties, boiled pots, fresh veg, game sauce, wild cranberry sauce and flatbread. For dessert: creme caramel with cream.
Breakfast this morning was the usual:- home baked breads, fish: gravalax, smoked salmon, various pickled herring dishes; meats, cheeses (including the norwegian sweet brown cheese) eggs with prawns, hot boiled eggs etc. They have a Kulturmolk which is a bit like buttermilk but not so tart and thicker - very good.
Oh - and there aren't many places where there is a notice pinned up in the entrance hall telling you what to do if you should meet a Musk Ox whilst out having a stroll!
Luckily we didn't but apparently there are plenty about so, if they become a nuisance in a particular area, they have to despatch them:( I would have loved to have seen one - preferably from a distance. I'm told they look like big shaggy boulders if they are lying down.
We left bright and early this morning for Trollstigen and the Geiranger Fjord - both mind blowingly spectacular and in my next post x
Wednesday, 15 August 2012
Trondheim - Norway's third largest city - & Roros - world heritage site
Arrived at the 'P' Hotel, Brattora in the early afternoon yesterday. The temperature was in the low 20s with not a cloud in the sky.
We'd had quite a nature filled journey from Molde. First spot was a roe deer and her twin fawns by the side of the road. A few miles furterr on I spotted a mummy elk !!!!!!! and her calf at the edge of a field. That was VERY exciting. Saw dozens of herons, loads of pied wagtails (which are migrant visitors here, flocks of geese (maybe grey lag)and the ubiquitous hooded crows.
First stop on our self guided walking tour of Trondheim was Nidaros Cathedral. The city was founded in 997 by Viking King Olaf Tryggvason and, up to 1217, was the capital of Norway. The cathedral, started in 1070, is the most important Gothic building in Norway and, since the middle ages, there has been a Pilgrims' Route, 400 miles long, from Oslo to St Olav's tomb in the Cathedral.
Trondheim, with the buildings historically made of wood, has fallen victim to numerous devastating fires and since the 17th century has been pretty much re-constructed.
I found it a lovely small city: lots of beautiful buildings, wide streets in a grid, a cafe culture, vibrant quay area and plenty of interesting shops :)
There were quite a few old traditional wooden boats moored in front of the hotel. Some sort of Boat (and everything connected with boat) Show on which they were part of.
This morning we left bright and early on our way to Roros: a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the south east nearly on the Swedish border.
We managed to get on the very last Tour of the village in English which was both interesting and entertaining.
In 1644 copper was discovered in the town and a Copper Works established. Because the people couldn't live entirely off their income from the mining company they had small farms at the back of their houses.
There are approximately 100 wooden houses from the 1700 and 1800s, with dark pitch pine facades, still inhabited by the local people. From the 1920s there have been preservation orders on these buildings, which are decorated on the street side and plain on the farm side, right down to the colours they have to be painted.
We had a tour of the beautiful church dating back from 1784 built by the mining company with a capacity of nearly 2,000 people where pews with curtains were auctioned off at the beginning of each year so that the great and the good could be awarded their rank and position.
A beautiful place seen at its very best in beautiful weather.
We are now in Trollton avoiding Musk Ox. More about that later x
We'd had quite a nature filled journey from Molde. First spot was a roe deer and her twin fawns by the side of the road. A few miles furterr on I spotted a mummy elk !!!!!!! and her calf at the edge of a field. That was VERY exciting. Saw dozens of herons, loads of pied wagtails (which are migrant visitors here, flocks of geese (maybe grey lag)and the ubiquitous hooded crows.
First stop on our self guided walking tour of Trondheim was Nidaros Cathedral. The city was founded in 997 by Viking King Olaf Tryggvason and, up to 1217, was the capital of Norway. The cathedral, started in 1070, is the most important Gothic building in Norway and, since the middle ages, there has been a Pilgrims' Route, 400 miles long, from Oslo to St Olav's tomb in the Cathedral.
Trondheim, with the buildings historically made of wood, has fallen victim to numerous devastating fires and since the 17th century has been pretty much re-constructed.
I found it a lovely small city: lots of beautiful buildings, wide streets in a grid, a cafe culture, vibrant quay area and plenty of interesting shops :)
There were quite a few old traditional wooden boats moored in front of the hotel. Some sort of Boat (and everything connected with boat) Show on which they were part of.
This morning we left bright and early on our way to Roros: a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the south east nearly on the Swedish border.
We managed to get on the very last Tour of the village in English which was both interesting and entertaining.
In 1644 copper was discovered in the town and a Copper Works established. Because the people couldn't live entirely off their income from the mining company they had small farms at the back of their houses.
There are approximately 100 wooden houses from the 1700 and 1800s, with dark pitch pine facades, still inhabited by the local people. From the 1920s there have been preservation orders on these buildings, which are decorated on the street side and plain on the farm side, right down to the colours they have to be painted.
We had a tour of the beautiful church dating back from 1784 built by the mining company with a capacity of nearly 2,000 people where pews with curtains were auctioned off at the beginning of each year so that the great and the good could be awarded their rank and position.
A beautiful place seen at its very best in beautiful weather.
We are now in Trollton avoiding Musk Ox. More about that later x
Tuesday, 14 August 2012
Molde - famous for roses, jazz & football
Hei again.
We left Kalvaag bright and early yesterday morning and four ferries, a walk around Alesund and a trip to the Aquarium later we arrived in Molde. The cloud had been low for most of our journey but, even so, the scenery was wonderful.
Booked into the Molde Fjordstuer Hotel and, after one false start and a bit of negotiating, got a fabulous room overlooking the Fjord with a balcony facing south west. The sun came out and started to burn off the cloud and all was revealed: a spectacular panoramic view of the Romsdal Alps across the Fjord. 222 peaks so the brochure claimed. Some with snow still on them. It was an amazing sight. So guess where we had our pre dinner drinks :)
The gas fuelled ferries operated by Fjord 1 were passing by my window every 20 minutes but were so quiet that I didn't hear them at all during the night.
Earlier in the day in Alesund we had seen one of the Hurtigrute ships: Hurtigrute's a passenger and freight line which provides a daily service along the west and north coast of Norway (a round trip of 11 days): so imagine our delight when the MS Kong Harald arrived at the quay outside the window. And we were even more surprised when another ship - MS Finnmarken - arrived an hour later! They were both picking up passengers who had left the ships on day tours from another port and then were bussed to Molde to catch the ship again.
My balcony also looked onto the Aker Stadion, an award winning building, home to the local football team.
Tonight we are in Trondheim at the P hotel, Brattora. More about that in my next post x
We left Kalvaag bright and early yesterday morning and four ferries, a walk around Alesund and a trip to the Aquarium later we arrived in Molde. The cloud had been low for most of our journey but, even so, the scenery was wonderful.
Booked into the Molde Fjordstuer Hotel and, after one false start and a bit of negotiating, got a fabulous room overlooking the Fjord with a balcony facing south west. The sun came out and started to burn off the cloud and all was revealed: a spectacular panoramic view of the Romsdal Alps across the Fjord. 222 peaks so the brochure claimed. Some with snow still on them. It was an amazing sight. So guess where we had our pre dinner drinks :)
The gas fuelled ferries operated by Fjord 1 were passing by my window every 20 minutes but were so quiet that I didn't hear them at all during the night.
Earlier in the day in Alesund we had seen one of the Hurtigrute ships: Hurtigrute's a passenger and freight line which provides a daily service along the west and north coast of Norway (a round trip of 11 days): so imagine our delight when the MS Kong Harald arrived at the quay outside the window. And we were even more surprised when another ship - MS Finnmarken - arrived an hour later! They were both picking up passengers who had left the ships on day tours from another port and then were bussed to Molde to catch the ship again.
My balcony also looked onto the Aker Stadion, an award winning building, home to the local football team.
Tonight we are in Trondheim at the P hotel, Brattora. More about that in my next post x
Sunday, 12 August 2012
Going North tomorrow!
It's been very quiet in the village this week. The tourist season is practically over and the nights are drawing in. From I arrived on 9th July until about the 5th August I didn't once see the moon and it was never completely dark. The moon spectacularly rose last Sunday night and the nights have been getting longer ever since.
It's quite autumn like in a way - not helped by the weather being lousy from Tuesday until yesterday afternoon when the sun came out again. Hooray. We were able to have our tea of crab claws, bread and salad at the table on the decking.
There was also a cruise liner in Floro so we had 40 English speaking tourists decanted from a coach right outside the shop door which made for a successful day sales wise.
P is closing the shop from Monday to Friday this week coming and we are going on a trip :) Maps out again please.
Tomorrow we head north for Alesund and an overnight stay in Molde: both on the west coast.
Tuesday we turn north east to Trondheim. It's the ancient capital of Norway with a Cathedral dating back to 1090 and is still where new Monarchs are blessed. I'm looking forward to taking a tour of the Royal Residences and, of course, seeing the Cathedral.
Wednesday we head south east to Roros, nearly on the Swedish border, and overnight in Dombas, heading south west again.
Thursday we are going due west in the direction of the Geiranger Fjord, which is spectacular I believe, and will stay at Hellesylt.
Back here, via Nordfjord, on Friday.
Looking forward to the changing scenery, to staying in hotels in stunning places and taking loads of photos which I can share with you all x
It's quite autumn like in a way - not helped by the weather being lousy from Tuesday until yesterday afternoon when the sun came out again. Hooray. We were able to have our tea of crab claws, bread and salad at the table on the decking.
There was also a cruise liner in Floro so we had 40 English speaking tourists decanted from a coach right outside the shop door which made for a successful day sales wise.
P is closing the shop from Monday to Friday this week coming and we are going on a trip :) Maps out again please.
Tomorrow we head north for Alesund and an overnight stay in Molde: both on the west coast.
Tuesday we turn north east to Trondheim. It's the ancient capital of Norway with a Cathedral dating back to 1090 and is still where new Monarchs are blessed. I'm looking forward to taking a tour of the Royal Residences and, of course, seeing the Cathedral.
Wednesday we head south east to Roros, nearly on the Swedish border, and overnight in Dombas, heading south west again.
Thursday we are going due west in the direction of the Geiranger Fjord, which is spectacular I believe, and will stay at Hellesylt.
Back here, via Nordfjord, on Friday.
Looking forward to the changing scenery, to staying in hotels in stunning places and taking loads of photos which I can share with you all x
Wednesday, 8 August 2012
And we went for a swim!
I forgot to tell you that also on Monday we braved the north sea. There's a man made beach called Bontlabo in the village and P and I got the cossies on, up the hill on the bikes and in for a dip - carefully avoiding the very pretty, but I imagine very stingy, orange jellyfish.
It was warmer I guess than we thought it was going to be - I bet you warmer than the east coast at home - and at least the sun was out to dry us when we got out.
It was warmer I guess than we thought it was going to be - I bet you warmer than the east coast at home - and at least the sun was out to dry us when we got out.
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